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Salvador - Restaurants

A Cubana
  Address: Rua Alfredo de Brito 12
Pelourinho
071/321-6162
It only makes sense that a city with an abundance of tropical fruits and a year-round warm climate would have great ice cream. One of the oldest sorveterias (ice-cream parlors) in town, A Cubana can be found in the heart of Pelourinho. With 70 years of experience, A Cubana doesn't go for fads or trends. The menu is not huge, only 28 homemade flavors at any given time; the owners say they prefer quality to quantity. Try the unusual fruit flavors such as jáca (jack fruit) or cupuaçu, a fruit only found in the Northeast.

Barravento
  Address: Av. Getulio Vargas 814 (a.k.a. Av. Oceanica)
Barra
071/247-2577
Barravento's beach patio overlooks all of the beach as far as the Farol da Barra. Underneath a large sail-shaped roof, the restaurant offers alfresco dining, rain or shine. The menu includes a large selection of typical Bahian dishes such as moquecas, marriscadas (seafood stews), and grilled fish. One dish that every Baiano will recommend is the moqueca de siri mole (soft-shell crab). If you're not in the mood for a full meal deal, Barravento serves a great variety of appetizers such as casquinha de siri (spiced crabmeat) and fish pastries; the view is complimentary.

Boi Preto
  Address: Av. Otavio Mangabeira s/n, Boca do Rio, The Beaches
071/371-1429
Just because you've died and gone to seafood heaven doesn't mean you can't come back to earth for a good all-you-can-eat churrasco now and then. The Salvador churrasco barbecue is a tad more exotic than in the rest of the country. The 22 cuts of meat served up include all the favorites such as picanha (rump steak), filet mignon, fraldinha (bottom sirloin), and alcatra (top sirloin), but also stranger fare like boar and caiman. (You've already paid so you may as well try it.) As with all rodízios there's a large buffet; this one has a particularly good selection of crabmeat and lobster in addition to the more standard selection of sushis, sashimis, cold cuts, and cheeses.

Camafeu de Oxossi
  Address: Praça Visc. De Cayru 250
Mercado Modelo, Comércio
071/242-9751
The Camafeu de Oxossi and the Maria de São Pedro restaurant share the lovely large patio upstairs in the Mercado Modelo. However, they have two very separate owners and two very separate bank accounts, which explains why when you first walk in, two equally keen and friendly Baianas try to persuade you to sit in their restaurant. Does it really matter where you eat? I couldn't tell the difference; both menus serve up traditional Bahian food, including nine types of moquecas. Shunned by locals, these restaurants are very much geared to tourists who are wandering the Mercado browsing for souvenirs, but the food is still fine and the views over the bay and the São Marcelo Fort are worth the price of admission alone.

Caranguejo da Dadá

  Address: Av. Otavio Mangabeira 940
Patamares, The Beaches
071/363-5151
 Overlooking Patamares beach, this bar/restaurant is perfect for a casual afternoon drink or snack, and makes a fine dinner destination as well. The menu offers seafood and seafood; very popular are the moquecas, ensopados, and bobó de camarão (these dishes serve two people). Crab lovers can choose from a variety of dishes such as crab with dendê; oil or stewed with veggies and potatoes. One of the most popular appetizers is the Casquinha da Dadá; (crabmeat with catupiry cheese and palm-heart gratineé in the oven). As in the other Dadá establishments, the preparation and ingredients are outstanding; even the coconut milk used is homemade.

Casa da Gamboá
  Address: Rua João de Deus 31
Pelourinho
071/321-3393
 One of the most elegant restaurants in Pelourinho, Casa da Gamboá serves up a Bahian "nouvelle cuisine." The classic Bahian dishes such as bobó de camarão are still on the menu, but the kitchen has gone beyond to create some fabulous modern fare. The camarão ao molho de manga is a tropical explosion of flavor; big juicy prawns are flamed in cognac and served with large pieces of mango in a creamy mango sauce. The elegant peixe tropical, or catch of the day, is grilled in a clove, cinnamon, and fruit sauce.

Il Forno
  Address: Rua Almirante Marques de Leão 77
Barra (close to the lighthouse),
071/264-7287
 For the best pizza in town, go where the locals go. Located in a lovely old house 1 block from Barra beach, the restaurant's best spots are upstairs on the patio where small tables with checkered tablecloths pack the deck. This restaurant serves over 40 varieties of pizza. Very popular is the house specialty Il Forno, made with bacon, palm heart, egg, tomato, mozzarella, olives, and oregano. For cheese lovers, the Mineira is a must, combining catupiry (a creamy mild white cheese), Gorgonzola, mozzarella, and provolone.

Jardim das Delicias
  Address: Rua João de Deus 12
Pelourinho
071/321-1449
 The Jardim das Delicias (Garden of Delights) is appropriately named. Tucked away inside an antiques store on the ground floor of a colonial house in Pelourinho, this lovely courtyard restaurant is the perfect getaway from the bustle and crowding of Pelourinho. The restaurant serves a full Bahian menu, but we highly recommend coming here for a tea or coffee and some sweets. Just pick something from the display of delicious cakes and pies, or order some waffles with a generous scoop of ice cream. That should give you the boost you need for further exploring.

Mama Bahia Salvador
  Address: Rua Alfredo Brito 21
Pelourinho
071/322-4397
 Rip-off Tommy Hilfiger logo aside, this lovely steak restaurant serves up excellent grilled meats. The house specialty, filet Mama Bahia, is a generous portion of grilled filet served with tagliatelli pasta in a Spanish tomato sauce with olives and peppers. There's also picanha, chicken, filet mignon and other cuts; all are served a la carte and you order the side dishes separately with a choice of salad, rice, farofa, or garlic bread. All this red meat calls for good wine, and the list includes a great selection of reds for less than R$91 (US$30), specializing in Chilean and Argentinean varietals.

Maria Mata Mouro
 

Address: Rua Inacio Accioli 8
Pelourinho
071/321-3929

 Maria Mata Mouro's menu is refreshingly light, especially if you have been gorging yourself on moquecas and vatapas for a few days. The very strong flavors of dendê; oil and dried shrimp or coconut milk are used sparingly, cropping up only now and again in sauces. A delicious appetizer is the salmon carpaccio; the thin layers of marinated fish are served with an anchovy-and-capers sauce. Recommended main courses include badejo fish in a ginger sauce, served with steamed vegetables and a potato torte, or the grilled bacalhau with broccoli and roasted garlic. The signature dessert is banana in a puff pastry flambéed with cachaça. Don't try this at home.

Salvador Dalí
  Address: Rua Borges dos Reis 158
Rio Vermelho (just past the Teatro Sesi), The Beaches
071/335-4593
 A narrow entrance off Rio Vermelho's main street makes this restaurant easy to overlook. Inside, the restaurant has a modern and sparse decor. The kitchen specializes in steaks; the filet mignon with funghi mushrooms and filet au poivre are both excellent. For something different (in Salvador, anyways), order a Nasi or a Bami Goreng (an Indonesian fried rice or noodle dish). The restaurant has a decent wine list with a selection of French, Italian, and Portuguese reds as well as some whites from Chile, Argentina, and France

Sorriso da Dadá
  Address: Rua Frei Vicente 5
Pelourinho
071/321-9642
 Dadá has made quite a name for herself. Brazilians and foreigners come from far and wide to taste her food, journalists write articles about her, and gourmet magazines rave about her cozy restaurant. Dadá just does what she does best, making the meanest Bahian food in town. Though main courses are huge, don't pass up on the appetizers. The octopus in a light vinaigrette is a good choice, or try the casquinha de siri; the crabmeat is mixed with dendê oil and cilantro and served in a crab shell. For mains there is only one choice, the bobó; de camarão. Desserts are quintessentially Bahian, just coconut, sugar, and cream, but even that tastes better when made in Dadá's kitchen. Service is sometimes great, sometimes slow and sloppy, but the food always makes a visit worthwhile.

Trapiche Adelaide
  Address: Praça do Tupinambás 2
Av. Contorno, Comércio
071/326-2211
Website
 Salvador may not be a fine-dining kind of town, but there are a few exceptions and Trapiche ranks prominently among them. The menu has a definite Italian twist with dishes such as risotto with quail and shimeji mushrooms (risotto de codorna). However, the French influence is still there; worth trying are the duck confit in mustard sauce served with sautéed potatoes or the grilled prawns with saffron risotto. The wine list is outstanding with mainly Italian, Portuguese, Chilean, and Argentinean selections; many are available by the glass. Oh, and if the fine food and wine weren't enough, the restaurant itself is stunningly beautiful.

Yemanjá
  Address: Av. Otavio Mangabeira 4655
Boca do Rio, The Beaches
071/231-3036
 One of the perennial contenders for best restaurant in Salvador, Yemanjá offers all the traditional Bahian choices. The moqueca de pitu is particularly worth recommending; pitu is a sweet-tasting freshwater prawn not often found on menus. Those who can't stand the sight of another stew (it does happen after a few days) will be pleased to see some grilled fish and prawns on the menu. Dessert is a must here. The Bahian desserts laden with sugar, coconut, and egg yolks are superb, and the homemade ice cream is some of the best in town.

 

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